Friday, November 23, 2012

4Pakistani.com

4Pakistani.com

Trend file with Secret Closet: A Brief History of Trousers Through the Ages

Posted: 23 Nov 2012 12:40 PM PST



Today we take you on a journey back in time to relive the defining moments in trouser trends for a crystal view of how styles have come full circle through the decades.

Did you know actor Sarah Bernhardt was one of the pioneers in introducing trousers as fashionable women's wear? She wore them in the 1890's in Paris, where, at the time, it was still unheard and unseen.

After World War I ended, the roaring '20s, as the period came to be known, saw some real activity in the realm of modern fashion. A wave of prosperity and optimism swept through the US and women began entering the work force. It was at this time when fashion doyenne Coco Chanel visited Venice and came across wide-legged trousers. Rejecting the traditional restrictive perspective on women's wear, she made the comfortable loose slacks a high fashion statement, finally liberating her gender from their corsets. The concept was born out of practicality of the pants in easily alighting gondolas! The pyjama pants became a fashion staple for 1930s Hollywood stars, who would lounge around in them on sets between takes. Hence, the Palazzo pants we wear today can be traced back to Chanel.

The empowerment of women literally led them to "wearing the pants," and by the 1940s the trouser took on a practical purpose as women worked in war efforts, factories, and on land. They wore trousers that were high-waisted and fitted around the hips, flaring out wide at the bottom. They also wore scarves over their hair to protect their glamorous curled hairdos.

The '50s saw women embracing a more feminine version of the trouser inspired by Audrey Hepburn's signature grace. This was the decade of the high-waist cigarette and Capri-pants that even complemented the hourglass figures. Bright coloured and printed pants were extremely popular, much like they are today. They had high waists, side zippers, flat fronts, wide waistbands, full hips and were slim-fit on the legs, ending just above the ankle.

The 1970s saw another fashion rebellion dominated by the hippie movement. Daring, carefree, ethnic looks with the aim to shock were the prevailing styles. The idea to shun everything materialistic and mainstream led to support designs of a non-western influence — giving rise to Indian and African fabrics, including tie-die and paisleys. The exaggerated bell-bottom flared trouser was the result of this rebellious attitude. The style gained more ground with the generation of the Charlie girls as they were known from the popular show "Charlie's Angels".

The bell-bottom was one of the most loved and long-lived styles, thanks to Elvis Presley and Sonny & Cher. Following that, the power suits arrived under the patronage of designers Georgio Armani and Donna Karan in the 1980s. Power dressing was fueled by the idea that if women were to be taken seriously in the work place, they must dress the part. Consequently, the masculine silhouette with broad shoulder pads, double-breasted, over-sized jackets and trousers to match took over. While Armani stressed the unstructured look, Donna Karan added more curves. Other major players included Liz Claiborne, Ann Taylor, and Calvin Klein. The inspiration for the style was in fact Katherine Hepburn whose 1942's Woman of the Year was recreated by everyone from YSL to Ralph Lauren, and Tory Burch for their Fall/Winter 2012 collection.

The '90s is perhaps the most unforgivable and regrettable period in the history of fashion! The grunge movement aka "I just rolled out of bed" look was another form of rebellious fashion that we lived through. Unflattering, baggy, combat trousers and ripped old jeans inspired by hip-hop bands and skateboard culture replaced the skinny jeans. The only positive point we saw here was the healthy body image message it set for young girls. The trend was promoted by the All Saints who paired the clumsy trousers with cropped tops.

Stepping into the 21st century did not set off any major fashion movements; however, it did mark a significant obsession with denim and a return to the skinny jeans. Low-rise denims were popularized by pop-stars like Britney Spears although several other cuts such as boot-leg, flare, and boyfriend jeans also came into fashion. Brand awareness soared as denim brands such as 7 For All Mankind, Diesel, and Citizens of Humanity became household names.

Finally, 2010 and our favourite current period is perhaps simply known for its diversity and freedom of style where fashion implies wearing what looks good on you. From skinny jeans to high-waisted and harem to Palazzos along with colours, statement prints and cropped are one big happy family co-existing in harmony.

Secretcloset.pk is a single online platform showcasing exclusive designers, collections, trends, news and events, and more. The portal provides a one stop guide to all your fashion informational needs in Pakistan.

Published in The Express Tribune, November 24th, 2012.

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Special treatment: KSE considering setting up separate lists for SMEs

Posted: 23 Nov 2012 11:38 AM PST



KARACHI: 

Karachi Stock Exchange (KSE) Deputy Managing Director Haroon Askari has said the KSE is considering setting up a dedicated counter for the small and medium enterprise (SME) board to help SMEs float shares. The flotation will be done under a new regulatory framework, which will be more flexible than the one that governs companies listed on the KSE ready board.

In an exclusive interview with The Express Tribune, Askari said a technical committee, set up by the Securities and Exchange Commission of Pakistan (SECP) earlier this year, has already formulated regulations governing the SME board. "They will be presented before the KSE board of directors shortly, which will be followed by formal approval from the SECP," Askari said.

Under the proposed regulations, a company may apply for the listing of its equity securities to be issued to the general public only if its minimum paid-up capital is Rs50 million or more. The proposed rules categorise small-cap companies as entities with paid-up capital of more than Rs50 million but less than Rs100 million. Similarly, companies with paid-up capital of more than Rs100 million and less than Rs200 million will be considered medium-cap companies.

Companies with the paid-up capital of Rs200 million and more will not be allowed to be listed on the KSE SME board, as they are already eligible to be listed on the KSE ready board.

The proposed regulations require that companies must maintain a minimum 'free-float' – the shares of a company readily available for trade on the stock market – of at least Rs5 million or 35% of its paid-up capital at all times.

Sponsoring member

The proposed rules mandate SMEs to appoint a sponsoring member – which could be a corporate brokerage house, investment bank, commercial bank, or any other SECP-approved financial institution – before applying for listing on the KSE. The role of a sponsoring member will be to examine the technical, managerial, commercial, economic and financial aspects of the project.

In case the sponsoring member is not a corporate brokerage house, the proposed rules say the company should appoint a broker to act as a primary market maker whose job will be to provide liquidity in securities by promising to buy or sell them at specified prices at all times.

The suggested rules stipulate that a company listed on the SME market must retain a sponsoring member at all times. In case an SME company ceases to have a sponsoring member, the KSE will suspend trading in its securities and impose a penalty of Rs10,000 for each day of default.

Higher risk

Askari says the SME market is being designed for emerging companies, which tend to have a higher investment risk compared to established, larger companies. Therefore, investors must make investment decisions carefully, and possibly in consultation with an independent financial adviser.

According to the proposed regulations, any company interested in listing on the SME market will be required to write "This is a small-cap company with a high probability of stock price and volatility risk. Investors are strongly advised to evaluate their risk tolerance and sustainability capability prior to investing in this company" in their prospectus in bold letters.

"We're considering whether we should let the general public invest in these companies or allow only sophisticated investors to take advantage of this investment option," Askari said; adding that, if approved by the SECP, the SME board will become operational before June 30, 2013.

Published in The Express Tribune, November 24th, 2012.

Music comes from my heart: Komal Rizvi

Posted: 23 Nov 2012 10:37 AM PST



LAHORE: 

Following her performance in "Coke Studio" season four, singer Komal Rizvi left the audiences in the subcontinent mesmerised with her edgy vocals and ultimately landed her a record deal in India.

In a recent interview with The Express Tribune, she reveals that her next album, Komal, will be releasing November 28 in India. She also plans to return to Pakistan in the near future and release a single called "Jhulay Lal" for her devoted fans.

"We wanted the album to have a certain direction," says Rizvi, commenting on her latest project. "The sound falls more in the Sufi-folk genre but it also has a bit of a filmy touch to it." The album contains eight songs and three singles, which will further accompany the album. Following her "Coke Studio" fame, she instantly received an offer from Saregama HMV, one of the biggest record labels in India, to record an album.

With her new album, Rizvi says she has focused on making music she likes. "At the end of the day, music is something which is very personal and I feel everyone has their own preferences," she says. "This will actually reflect in every song of my album and all I can say is that, it's from the heart." Through her music, she wants to show her fans the different sides to her personality. "It's not necessarily serious music. Some of the songs are and some aren't — they show different shades of me."

Commenting on the non-film music scene in India, she says it's rather unexplored and small in size. However on a more positive note, there are a lot of musicians and singers experimenting in that field regardless. "The film industry is huge, so musicians can afford to experiment with non-Bollywood music and they won't end up dying of hunger," she says. While she admits Bollywood is extremely competitive when it comes to playback singers, people are still quite welcoming and as a result, she has signed some projects. "It's still premature to go into the details of these projects — at least till the films' release dates are announced," she reveals.

Rizvi feels India has a more welcoming and positive environment as compared to Pakistan on several levels. "The circumstances in Pakistan's music industry are quite unstable and therefore even the inexperienced and rather new artists, are not cooperative or friendly," she admits, adding that this is a result of the insecurity amongst artists in the industry. However, there is a bright side to this as well as she says, "The advantage of being an independent singer here [in Pakistan] is that you can experiment a lot — you don't have to be stuck with one specific sound." She enjoys all kinds of genres whether it's R&B, folk, soul or rock.

As far as exploring other options in her career are concerned, Rizvi says she is interested in acting as well as she has tried her luck at it in the past. "I have thought about it. I was offered a couple of films and a horror TV show as well, but for now I have decided not to do it," she says. "The reason is, I want to wait till I get a good script — a film with substance. I don't want to do the family-drama sort of films."

Published in The Express Tribune, November 24th, 2012.

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Muharram security: Long shawls, coats banned in Haripur

Posted: 23 Nov 2012 09:36 AM PST



PEHSAWAR: The District Coordination Officer (DCO), Haripur under Section 144 of CrPC has banned the use of tinted glass for vehicles, use of explosive crackers and long shawls and coats in the revenue jurisdiction of the district.

The ban imposed with immediate effect will continue for a period of 15 days. Action against violators will be taken under Section 188 of Pakistan Penal Code.

The measure has been taken in view of the security situation in the district due to Ashura.

The average temperatures for Haripur over the next week range between 27-30 degrees Celsius during the day while night time temperatures can drop to as low as 13 degrees Celsius.

LHC issues fresh notices to PML-Q MNA in disqualification petition

Posted: 23 Nov 2012 08:35 AM PST



LAHORE: The Lahore High Court has once again issued notice to Pakistan Muslim League-Quaid MNA Chaudhry Liaqat Bhatti through the speaker National Assembly on a petition seeking the MNA's disqualification.

Justice Nasir Saeed Sheikh issued the notices on Friday after no one appeared before the court despite advanced notices of previous hearings.

Petitioner Ahmed Waheed Khan in his petition had submitted that the parliamentarian had participated in the election by furnishing a bogus graduation degree to complete election commission requirements in 2008. He said that according to the Article 62 and 63 of the Constitution, the MNA stood disqualified for not being Ameen and for concealing facts.

He had prayed to the court to order for Bhattis' disqualification and called for a reelection on the constituency.

Despite the absence of counselors, the court issued fresh notices to the MNA through the speaker.

Food checks: New authority clashes with old over jurisdiction

Posted: 23 Nov 2012 06:35 AM PST



LAHORE: 

The District Food Office is preparing to conduct checks on prepared and processed foods after Muharram, raising questions about overlapping powers and clashing jurisdictions with the Punjab Food Authority.

Executive District Officer (Health) Captain (retired) Inamul Haq told The Express Tribune that his office could delegate the power to check food for adulteration to the District Food Office under the Fourth and Eighth Schedule of the Punjab Local Government Ordinance (PLGO).

The Pure Food Ordinance, under which city government inspectors previously conducted checks, stood repealed in July when the PFA became active in Lahore district. The EDO said though the inspection powers of the city government under the ordinance had been removed, it retained the authority to check foods for adulteration under the PLGO.

"Accordingly, those powers have been delegated to the staff and the campaign will be a continuation of the work by the DO Food. We have sanitary inspectors and food inspectors to ensure the enforcement of food laws," he said.

Haq said that they were also currently conducting checks on sabeels and free food handed out at mourning processions. The post-Muharram operation of the city government will be headed by the deputy DO (Food), who will be entrusted the powers of the DO Food, who is currently serving as deputy director (Operations). The city government has published advertisements seeking any complaints regarding food from citizens.

He said that he had asked Acting DO (Food) Chaudhry Ayub to devise a plan to address the issue of power overlap with the PFA. He said that their separate domains would be identified. He said that local government inspections were necessary given the volume of food that needed to be checked.

PFA Director General Asad Islam Mahani said that any exercise of power by the city government in food-related matters would be illegal. "The PFA alone has the right and the mandate to check foods, including for adulteration. It is a question of domain," he said.

Mahani said that local governments in the other 35 districts of the province retained their food inspection powers under the PFO, since the PFA was only functional in Lahore. "We're not trying to engage in a power struggle," he said. "Hopefully the matter will be cleared up soon."

The PFA Act 2012 enhanced the punishments for food adulteration to a maximum of five years in prison and a Rs500,000 fine. The maximum penalties that local government food inspectors could hand out were three years in prison and a fine of Rs3,000.

Lawyer Azhar Siddique, a prolific filer of civil interest litigation, said that in his opinion, the PFA had the sole jurisdiction on food-related matter.

"Special laws supersede the already existing laws," he said. "If the matter is not addressed, it will likely be challenged in court."

He said that similarly, in cases of criminal breach of trust, National Accountability Bureau laws superseded the Pakistan Penal Code (PPC), while in banking crimes Federal Investigation Agency laws superseded the PPC.

Published in The Express Tribune, November 23rd, 2012.

Pakistan struggling to achieve food security, says a United Nations report

Posted: 23 Nov 2012 05:31 AM PST



ISLAMABAD: 

Despite the efforts of the Pakistani government and international organisations, inflation, declining income, natural disasters and stagnating domestic productivity are hampering attempts to achieve food security for the country's 180 million citizens.

More than half of Pakistani households are food insecure, according to the last major national nutrition survey, reports the Integrated Regional Information Network of the United Nations.

The prices of staple grains like wheat and rice have been stable but are "significantly higher" than 2011, according to the World Food Program's (WFP) October 2012 Global Food Security Update.

A 25% rise in fuel prices has also pushed up the price of food, as it becomes increasingly expensive to transport. The WFP says rising food prices in international markets recently may also lead to price hikes in Pakistan.

"Efforts have to be made to increase production, but in Pakistan, the problem of food security is mainly a problem of access. Over the last couple of years, Pakistan has officially been a food surplus country in terms of cereal production," says Krishna Pahari, head of WFP's Vulnerability Analysis and Mapping unit in Islamabad.

"But many households here don't have access to that food. Many are marginal, deficit, subsistence farmers whose own production is not enough to meet their needs. You're a farmer, but you have to buy food from the market because of insufficient production."

Despite concerns, some experts believe that because Pakistan's primary food security issue is access, there are ways to handle it.

"This also provides an opportunity," says Pahari. "It means that in terms of the national food situation, maybe Pakistan is ok. With good management, and by putting mechanisms in place to improve access, there is potential to ensure food security."

Agriculture is the mainstay of Pakistan's economy, contributing 21% of the country's GDP and employing 45% of the labour force. The lack of innovation and a failure to increase efficiency at farms across Pakistan, however, has led to stagnant productivity.

"In 1999, our production per acre of wheat was 1,040-1,090 kilogrammes. Look at how much our population has increased in the last 13 years, but our production per acre for wheat today is the same," said Ibrahim Mughal, chairman of the Pakistan Agri Forum, one of the country's largest farmers' organisations.

Many farms employ antiquated farming methods, and the inefficient use of water also contributes to poor productivity. Water availability in Pakistan, where a large percentage of agriculture relies on irrigation, has been dwindling. Experts say if water is not utilised more efficiently, production is likely to decline, and could dramatically impact food security.

The failure to boost domestic productivity has meant an increasing burden on what is harvested, with Pakistan's population growing at the fastest rate in South Asia. Poor economic performance over the last five years means millions of Pakistanis have less to spend on increasingly expensive food.

Rising global grain prices have also adversely affected food security in Pakistan.

"International prices have gone up, but on the domestic level, farmers are getting a lower procurement price. So they're not interested and may shift to other crops," said Mughal.

According to the Pakistan Agri Forum, based on the cultivation trend so far, the 2012-13 wheat production target of 26 million tons is unlikely to be realised. Poor food security has a direct impact on the population, experts say, which leads to indirect consequences for the country's already weak economy.

"That the food security situation is very serious overall is reflected in the very poor, very serious nutrition outcomes," said WFP's Pahari. "If we look at [the number of children with low weight for their height], the rate in Pakistan is 15.1% for children under five. Any value above 15 is considered an emergency level by the WHO." 

Published in The Express Tribune, November 23rd, 2012.

Muharram processions: Curfew, restrictions imposed in Srinagar

Posted: 23 Nov 2012 04:30 AM PST



ISLAMABAD: The authorities imposed curfew and other restrictions in Srinagar on Friday to prevent people from taking out Muharram processions.

According to Kashmir Media Service, the authorities had deployed hundreds of Indian police and Central Reserve Police Force personnel brandishing guns and bamboo sticks, in major and small lanes and by-lanes of Srinagar.

The armoured vehicles had been parked at major junctions while concertina wires had been laid on the roads and city entry points to stop the movement of people.

Ashura marks the martyrdom of Hazrat Imam Hussein (RA), the grandson of Prophet Hazrat Muhammad (SAW), in Karbala.

Meanwhile, the Indian authorities placed APHC Chairman, Mirwaiz Umar Farooq and other Hurriyet leaders including Syed Ali Gilani, Mohammad Yasin Malik and Shabbir Ahmed Shah under house arrest to prevent them from addressing public meetings.

Heavy contingents of police were deployed outside the residences of the leaders and were conveyed to stay indoors.

Against ‘security theatre’

Posted: 23 Nov 2012 03:29 AM PST



Every time the government justifies its actions on the grounds of national security, watch out: you are facing a looming threat and the likely perpetrator is the government itself. When the spectre of terrorism — a very real and terrifying phenomenon — is raised, we have little choice but to acquiesce to the demands of the police state. 'Security theatre', which is to actual security what Twenty20 is to Test cricket — a mere shadow of the real thing — exists only to make us feel that the government is doing something to protect us.

The government's recent go-to tactic of shutting off cell phone service on important religious occasions, when the threat of militant attacks is higher, is the perfect illustration of security as an illusion. Sure, this makes it harder for terrorists to communicate with one another but this is a problem which can easily be overcome by those who are determined enough. The people it truly affects is every other Pakistani who may not have any alternative means of communication. These are the people caught in accidents who need to call for help, those who just want to go about their everyday business without being unduly hindered by the state. The same applies to the motorcycle bans. Militants can easily get their hands on another form of transportation; others who ride motorcycles aren't going to be able to obtain a different form of vehicular transport on one day's notice.

The problem with 'security theatre', apart from the ridiculous burden it places on citizens, is that it can never truly backfire on the government. If there is no terrorist attack when these restrictions are in place then, look, the government's actions worked. If we do suffer an attack, then that is taken as solid proof that even more needs to do be done. Thus, the security state keeps expanding, greedily gorging on our freedom to peacefully get about our day. Think of how quickly we've accepted being hounded at airports and harassed at checkpoints.

That there is no meaningful check on the power of the state to constantly take away what should be our rights is entirely due to us not having any rights in the first place. The Constitution may guarantee us plenty of rights but then it immediately negates those rights by carving out caveats, like for the maintenance of public order. Any human right that can be so easily snuffed out by vague terms is no human right at all.

With the Constitution giving the government cover for its actions, the only hope is in having an active, as opposed to activist, judiciary that defines nebulous terms like 'public order' and 'national security' in the strictest manner possible. Even then, the rights of all citizens are not equally applied. The Sindh High Court, for example, found the motorcycle ban unjustified but has had nothing to say on the cell phone ban. The Balochistan High Court had no problem with the motorcycle ban and so residents of Quetta were left without their bikes while those in Karachi could ride merrily. If we are to have any clarity on exactly how far the government can go in denying us basic rights, it may require a judgment from the Supreme Court.

Till then, our only play is to make as much noise as possible about every government intrusion into our lives. A state that gets acquiesce of the citizens it is meant to serve will only end up tightening the noose. A population that is fearful and complies with the actions of its government is not one that will be getting its freedom any time soon.

Published in The Express Tribune, November 23rd, 2012.

Champions League: Long way to go for City, says Mancini

Posted: 23 Nov 2012 02:29 AM PST



MANCHESTER: 

Manchester City coach Roberto Mancini said his side have a long way to go to be considered Champions League contenders after a second successive group-phase exit.

City were held 1-1 by Real Madrid on Wednesday, with Sergio Aguero cancelling out Karim Benzema's opener from the penalty spot in the second half. City currently lead the Premier League, having pipped Manchester United to the title last season, but Mancini says they are not yet major players on the continental scene.

"This is for us the second time to play in the Champions League and to win the Champions League, maybe you need to go first in the first stage," he said. "Maybe you can win the Champions League. But I think that there are five, six teams better than us."

Di Matteo 'proud' despite Chelsea axe

Meanwhile, Roberto Di Matteo spoke of his pride in having managed Chelsea after the club sacked him despite the Italian guiding the Londoners to their first Champions League title last season.

"It was an honour for me to be appointed manager of the club," said Di Matteo. "I am proud of the successes and trophies that we were able to bring in recent months."

Prior to Di Matteo's statement, Chelsea announced that former Liverpool boss Rafael Benitez had been appointed as their 'interim' first-team manager until the end of the season. Di Matteo was the seventh manager sacked by Chelsea's Russian billionaire owner Roman Abramovich since he bought the club in 2003.

Published in The Express Tribune, November 23rd, 2012.
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